If you’re a professional plumber or a do-it-yourself homeowner tackling a complex pipe repair, you’ve probably turned to a handful of trusted fasteners—soldered joints, threaded fittings, crimped couplings. But what about rivets? As a rivet supplier who’s spent the last 12 years working with plumbers, HVAC technicians, and industrial maintenance teams, I’ve fielded this exact question hundreds of times: Can rivets really hold up in plumbing applications? Rivets
The short answer is: Yes, but only when you pick the right type of rivet, match it to the plumbing system’s demands, and install it correctly. Too many people write off rivets as a “car body only” fastener or a relic of mid-20th century construction, but when used properly, they solve a lot of problems that other fasteners struggle with. Let’s break down why rivets belong in your plumbing toolkit, where they work best, and the pitfalls to avoid.
First, let’s clarify what makes a rivet different from the fasteners most plumbers use every day. A rivet is a mechanical fastener that consists of a cylindrical shaft with a head on one end; you insert it through aligned holes in two or more materials, then deform the empty end of the shaft (called the “bucktail”) to create a second head that locks the materials together. Unlike screws, which require threading into a substrate, or bolts, which need a nut on the backside, rivets create a permanent, vibration-resistant joint without access to the rear of the assembly. That’s a game-changer in plumbing, where pipes are often buried in walls, tucked under floors, or mounted in tight, hard-to-reach spaces.
Let’s start with the most common plumbing applications where rivets excel: repairing thin-gauge metal piping and fittings. For decades, galvanized steel and copper drain pipes used in residential and light commercial construction have been prone to pinhole leaks, especially in older homes where galvanized steel corrodes from years of water exposure. Soldering a pinhole leak requires skill, clean metal surfaces, and access to both sides of the pipe. If the pipe is tucked into a wall cavity or a tight crawl space, you can’t get a torch in there without damaging adjacent drywall or insulation.
That’s where a pop rivet (also called a blind rivet) comes in. Pop rivets are designed for single-sided installation—you drill a small hole in the pipe, insert the rivet, and pull a tool to deform the bucktail, creating a tight seal. For pinhole leaks in thin-gauge drain pipe, a stainless steel pop rivet with a rubber sealing washer (called a “sealant rivet”) forms a water-tight bond almost instantly. I’ve seen plumbers use this method for emergency repairs in rental properties where a wall can’t be opened right away; the rivet holds pressure for months, often until the full pipe replacement can be scheduled.
Wait, you might be thinking—what about pressure rating? Plumbers can’t use a fastener that works for drain water on a pressurized water line, right? That’s a valid concern. But blind rivets aren’t just for non-pressurized drains. For low-pressure cold water lines (up to 125 PSI), 316 stainless steel structural blind rivets (the ones that have a steel pin that remains in the shaft after installation) can create a joint that outlasts threaded couplings in some cases. I supplied a set of 1/8-inch 316 stainless structural blind rivets to a plumbing contractor in Portland last year who was repairing a section of copper cold water line under a slab. The joint he made with rivets held up through a winter of freeze-thaw cycles, and he told me it was easier and faster than sweating a new coupling, since he didn’t have to jackhammer the slab to access both ends of the pipe.
The key here is matching the rivet’s material to the plumbing’s water chemistry. Galvanized steel rivets, for example, will corrode rapidly in areas with acidic water (common in parts of the Midwest and Northeast U.S.), so they’re a bad choice for potable water lines. 316 stainless steel, on the other hand, is resistant to both acidic and chlorinated water, which is why it’s the gold standard for marine plumbing, coastal construction, and any potable water application where corrosion resistance is non-negotiable. For non-potable drainage lines, aluminum rivets work as a cost-effective alternative to stainless steel, as long as they’re not exposed to saltwater or harsh chemicals.
Another underrated use for rivets in plumbing is securing pipe hangers and support brackets. Most plumbers use lag screws or bolts to hang pipes from wall studs or ceiling joists, but those fasteners can loosen over time from the constant vibration of running water, or from expansion and contraction as pipes heat and cool. Rivets create a permanent, rigid bond between the hanger’s metal plate and the pipe’s exterior, so the hanger stays tight even when the pipe shifts. I’ve also worked with industrial maintenance teams who use rivets to repair damaged pipe hangers in factories, where heavy pipes vibrate at high frequencies—rivets don’t work loose, unlike screws which can back out over time.
Now, let’s talk about where rivets don’t work, because that’s just as important as where they do. Rivets are not ideal for high-pressure hot water lines (above 150 PSI) or for thick-gauge pipes, where the hole you drill for the rivet would weaken the pipe too much. You also shouldn’t use aluminum rivets on copper lines, because galvanic corrosion will eat through both the aluminum rivet and the copper pipe over time. I had a customer make that mistake a few years ago—he used aluminum rivets to repair a copper domestic water line, and within six months, the rivet had corroded through, causing a leak that flooded his customer’s basement. That’s a lesson we emphasize with every customer: always pair dissimilar metals with a barrier (like a neoprene washer) or pick a rivet made from the same metal as the pipe.
Installation mistakes are another common reason rivets get a bad rap in plumbing. Too often, plumbers drill a hole that’s too big or too small for the rivet, or they don’t deform the bucktail enough to create a proper seal. For a pop rivet to work in plumbing, the hole should be 0.001 to 0.002 inches larger than the rivet’s shaft diameter—too big, and the rivet won’t create a tight seal; too small, and you’ll damage the pipe or break the rivet during installation. We always supply a small installation guide with every bulk order, outlining the correct drill bit size, grip length (the length of the rivet’s shaft that passes through the materials being joined), and how to set the bucktail correctly with a manual or pneumatic rivet gun.
I’ve also noticed a shift in the plumbing industry toward rivets over the last five years, especially as labor costs rise. A 2022 study by the Plumbing-Heating-Cooling Contractors Association found that 62% of residential plumbers now use blind rivets for emergency pipe repairs, up from 38% in 2018. The reason? Rivet repairs take half the time of soldered joints—no waiting for the metal to cool, no risk of burning adjacent materials, no need for special training. For plumbers operating on tight schedules, that’s a huge win.
But there’s still a lot of misinformation out there, which is why I make a point to talk to every plumber who reaches out to us. Last month, a young apprentice plumber asked me if rivets would work for repairing a gas line. We explained that for low-pressure gas lines (natural gas or propane under 1 PSI), a 316 stainless steel rivet with a sealing washer works, but high-pressure gas lines require specialized fittings per code. That’s another key point: always check local plumbing codes before using rivets in any application, especially for potable water, gas, or commercial systems. Most residential codes allow rivet repairs for temporary or emergency use, but permanent installations may require approved fasteners.
So, to circle back to the original question: Can rivets be used in plumbing applications? Absolutely—when you choose the right type of rivet for the job, match the material to the pipe and water chemistry, install it correctly, and adhere to local codes. They’re not a replacement for soldered joints or threaded couplings in every scenario, but they fill a critical gap in the toolkit for tight spaces, emergency repairs, and vibration-resistant pipe supports.
If you’re a plumber looking to add rivets to your inventory, or you have a specific question about which rivet works for your next job, feel free to reach out to discuss your project needs.
Hex Nut References
- Plumbing-Heating-Cooling Contractors Association. (2022). Fastener Usage Trends in Residential Plumbing Repairs. PHCC National Research Center.
- Stainless Steel Rivet Materials for Potable Water Systems. (2021). International Association of Plumbing and Mechanical Officials (IAPMO) Technical Bulletin.
- Galvanic Corrosion in Plumbing Fasteners. (2019). Journal of Plumbing and Building Science, Vol. 45, No. 2, pp. 112-128.
- Blind Rivet Installation Guidelines for Thin-Gauge Metal Pipes. (2020). Rivet Technology Association Industry Standard RTA-102.
Handan Dongchao Hardware Products Co., Ltd.
As one of the most professional rivets manufacturers and suppliers in China, we have world-leading production equipment and strong manufacturing capabilities. Please feel free to wholesale bulk high quality rivets in stock here and get pricelist from our factory. Customized orders are welcome.
Address: West of Xiaobeizhuang Village, South of Beizhangzhuang Village, Hanshan District, Handan City
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